Alone in Tanzania’s Least-Visited National Park

April 24, 2025

"For the next four days, you have the whole national park to yourselves. If you encounter other people, they’ll either be poachers or us chasing the poachers,” Tanzania National Parks (TANAPA) ranger Melau informed us.

The sun was already setting when he handed us our permits and a map he had sketched for us. We had met Ranger Melau in Kaliua, a small town still 70 kilometers north of Ugalla River National Park. Normally, permits are issued at the park gate, but due to the lack of mobile network coverage, we had arranged to meet him in Kaliua instead.

Ugalla River National Park lies deep in western Tanzania. Despite its rich wildlife, the park remains relatively unknown and largely unexplored. At its heart, the Ugalla River meanders slowly through vast Borassus palm forests and Miombo woodlands. During the wet season, the river spills over its banks, transforming the surrounding floodplains into a sprawling swamp. In the dry season, it becomes a lifeline for wildlife, which congregates near the river. Only a handful of visitors explore the park each year, and it’s not uncommon to have a park larger than Yosemite National Park all to yourself.

We entered the park in complete darkness, and with a 35-kilometer dirt road ahead to reach the river, we set off into the night. TANAPA had recently begun bulldozing an access track into the park, so we progressed well at first. However, halfway through, the bulldozer’s work came to an abrupt halt, leaving us on a narrow trail that eventually disappeared. As we slowly pushed southward toward the river, the forest and tall grass thinned, giving way to extensive meadows. By midnight, we finally reached the riverbank and set up camp, surrounded by the beautiful sounds of the African night. We had arrived in the heart of Tanzania’s least-visited national park.

The best time to visit Ugalla River is from August to October. It’s an excellent terrain for extensive walking safaris. With its rich biodiversity, including rare species like the Roan and Sable antelopes, as well as its awe-inspiring Borassus palm forests, Ugalla River is waiting for the few who are ready to step off the beaten path.

Tuko pamoja!

Conrad

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